Understanding Cosmetic Ingredients: What’s Really in Your Lotion?
Ghost Valley Farm | Transparent Skincare | Natural Ingredients Explained
Choosing a lotion that feels amazing and nourishes your skin? Absolutely. Worried about the scientific-sounding ingredients listed on the label? You’re not alone—but there’s no need to stress.
At Ghost Valley Farm, we formulate skin and hair-loving products using simple, safe, and plant-based cosmetic ingredients—many of which are grown right here in our organically managed gardens or sourced from local beekeepers and regenerative farms.
You might see long, hard-to-pronounce names on our labels. That’s because we follow INCI standards (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients), which ensure that ingredients are labeled consistently across the globe. These names might sound intimidating, but they're just the official way of identifying familiar ingredients.
So, what are these ingredients—and what do they do? Let’s break it down.
Have questions about an ingredient we use? Contact us anytime.
Common Cosmetic Ingredients, Explained
BTMS-25 (Behentrimonium Methosulfate & Cetearyl Alcohol)
A plant-derived conditioning emulsifier made from colza oil (a cousin of canola), BTMS-25 leaves hair soft, manageable, and buildup-free. We use it in our conditioners and lotions to make products feel silky without greasiness.
Learn more about BTMS and its benefits →
Cetyl Alcohol
Not your average “alcohol”—cetyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol that acts as a thickener, emollient, and stabilizer. It gives lotions their creamy texture while helping your skin retain moisture.
What is cetyl alcohol and is it safe? →
Cetearyl Alcohol
A blend of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, this fatty alcohol helps emulsify oil and water. It’s a key ingredient in many natural moisturizers and conditioners and helps support your skin barrier function.
Honeyquat
A moisture-binding agent derived from real honey, honeyquat leaves hair shiny, soft, and easier to comb. It also helps keep skin supple and hydrated, especially in dry climates or after sun exposure.
Hydrolyzed Keratin Protein
Sourced from ethically obtained sheep’s wool, hydrolyzed keratin mimics the protein structure of your own skin, hair, and nails. It helps restore damaged hair, reduce breakage, and add natural shine.
Isopropyl Myristate
This lightweight emollient enhances absorption, smooths skin, and cuts through oily textures. Incredible in rich lotions that still feel dry to the touch. Perfect for normal to dry skin types.
Polyquaternium-7 (Polyquat-7)
This water-soluble conditioning agent gives hair "slip" for easier detangling and reduces static and frizz. In skincare, it smooths and softens without heaviness.
Polysorbate 80
A gentle emulsifier that keeps bath oils from separating and prevents soap colorants from staining towels or tubs. Commonly used in natural bath bombs and oil-based body scrubs.
Sodium Lactate
A naturally derived humectant and pH regulator made from fermented sugar. It’s more moisturizing than glycerin and also used in soapmaking to harden bars and improve mold release.
Titanium Dioxide
A naturally occurring mineral pigment used to whiten soaps and creams. It’s also a key ingredient in mineral sunscreens and provides UV protection. In our workshop, we use it in small amounts to brighten soaps and natural makeup formulas.
Why We Use INCI Names (and Why You Can Trust Them)
Scientific names like Cetearyl Alcohol or Behentrimonium Methosulfate might look intimidating, but they’re part of a globally recognized labeling system designed for clarity, transparency, and consistency.
At Ghost Valley Farm, we only use ingredients that meet our standards for safety, skin compatibility, environmental impact, and ethical sourcing. If we didn’t use it on our own family, it wouldn’t go into our products.
Have a question about something you saw on a label? Just ask us.
*This list is always growing—check back often as we continue to add new ingredients and updates.
A Guide to Soapmaking Oils, Butters, and Waxes: What They Do and Why We Use Them
Ghost Valley Farm | Sustainable Soapmaking | Ingredient Transparency
At Ghost Valley Farm, every soap and skincare product is handcrafted with purpose. We carefully select each oil, butter, and wax to nourish your skin and hair, to get dishes sparkling clean, and to gently cleanse clothing while making grease stains disappear like magic. Whether you’re looking for soap for your newborn’s soft skin, a hard-working conditioner bar, or a biodegradable bar for backpacking, the ingredients that we use matter.
If you’ve ever looked at an ingredient label and wondered what all those long names mean, don’t worry. Those hard-to-pronounce terms are just the INCI names (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients), required globally for consistency and clarity. We’ve listed the common and scientific names below, and each ingredient’s purpose in natural soapmaking and skincare.
🌿 Soapmaking Oils, Butters & Waxes We Use Most Often
Argan Oil (Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil)
Rich in vitamins A and E and loaded with antioxidants, argan oil is a favorite for natural hair care products. It gives our soap a luxurious feel and helps harden the bar while creating a silky, stable lather.
Avocado Oil (Persea Gratissima Oil)
High in essential fatty acids and vitamins A, B, D, and E, avocado oil is ideal for moisturizing dry skin. It stabilizes lather and adds a velvety softness to facial bars and conditioners.
Beeswax (Cera Alba)
Beeswax hardens balms and soap bars and locks in moisture. It also forms a protective barrier on the skin and lips. We source unbleached beeswax locally whenever possible.
Canola Oil (Brassica Campestris Seed Oil)
Similar to olive oil, canola oil creates a creamy lather in a well-balanced bar. It’s mild and conditioning—perfect for daily use.
Castor Oil (Ricinus Communis Seed Oil)
A must in shampoo, conditioner, and shave bars, castor oil draws moisture into skin and hair and adds richness and bubbles to soap lather. It also makes the soap dissolve more easily in water. Traditionally used in Southern Asia for conditioning hair masks.
Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter)
Used in lotions, creams, balms, and soaps, cocoa butter creates hard, long-lasting bars with a rich lather. Emulsified cocoa butter often makes an appearance in our bath goodies. Emulsified cocoa butter moisturizes and forms a protective barrier without leaving a mess in the tub. We prefer natural cocoa butter because it smells amazing.
Coconut Oil (Cocos Nucifera Oil)
This is the foundation of most of our soaps and shampoo bars. Coconut oil produces a hard, white bar with strong cleansing properties and big, fluffy lather. It’s also widely used for skin and oral care.
Hemp Seed Oil (Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil)
High in vitamins A and E, hemp oil adds mild cleansing properties and a luxurious lather. It’s popular in eco-friendly, vegan soaps.
Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil)
Technically a liquid wax, jojoba mimics our skin’s natural oils. It helps stabilize lather and improves the longevity of soap bars, while being excellent in non-comedogenic skincare.
Kokum Butter (Garcinia Indica Seed Butter)
Lightweight and fast-absorbing, kokum butter is great for moisturizing without feeling greasy. In soap, it contributes to hardness and gentleness. You might also find kokum butter in our high-end lip balms and tints.
Lard (Lard)
Used for generations, lard creates hard, creamy white bars with mild lather. It’s still one of the best fats for traditional handmade soap and adds stability and richness.
Olive Oil (Olea Europaea Oil)
The star of Castile soap, olive oil makes a mild, conditioning bar ideal for sensitive skin. It’s high in vitamin E and polyphenols and creates a small, creamy lather.
Learn more about the benefits of olive oil in skincare →
Palm Oil (Elaeis Guineensis Oil)
Palm oil is a plant-based alternative to lard, used to create vegan hard bars of soap. We choose not to use palm oil regularly, and source sustainable palm oil if the recipe requires it.
Read about sustainable palm oil sourcing →
Rice Bran Oil (Oryza Sativa)
This antioxidant-rich oil has a smooth, thick texture and creates soap with a silky feel and gentle cleansing properties. Rice Bran Oil is also used to give soap a slightly glossy finish that is common with commercial soaps, but without any of the detergents and binders.
Safflower Oil (Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil)
A gentle, skin-loving oil similar to sunflower. It creates a mild bar with conditioning lather and is excellent for sensitive skin types.
Sesame Oil (Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil)
High in antioxidants and fatty acids, sesame oil moisturizes and soothes. We occasionally use toasted sesame oil for its rich scent in specialty soap recipes.
Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter)
A favorite and frequently used in our recipes, shea butter is ultra-moisturizing and creates a silky, creamy lather. It’s especially popular for dry or irritated skin. Shea butter is used for soap, skin care, hair care, and lip balms.
Sunflower Oil (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil)
Rich in vitamin E and essential fatty acids, sunflower oil makes a very conditioning soap with a gentle touch.
Tallow (Tallow)
Like lard, tallow makes a hard, white bar with creamy, stable lather. It’s great for body bars and laundry soaps. We use responsibly sourced tallow in small batches.
Why We List INCI (Scientific) Names
We include common and scientific names of each ingredient to maintain full transparency and meet international labeling standards. INCI names ensure that customers can trust what’s inside their products.
Why We No Longer Use Natural Mica in Our Soaps and Skincare
Ghost Valley Farm Blog | Sustainable Soapmaking | Ethical Colorants
At Ghost Valley Farm, we believe in transparency, sustainability, and continuous learning. While we love using natural ingredients, sometimes natural isn’t the most ethical or safest option. Colorants—especially mica—are a perfect example.
What Is Mica and Why Is It Used?
Mica is a shimmering mineral commonly found in soaps, makeup, and personal care products. It gives that pearlescent glow in your eyeshadow palette, toothpaste, BB cream, or favorite bar of soap. However, despite being a natural mineral, mica is tied to serious ethical and environmental concerns.
Read more about mica in cosmetics →
The Ethical Issue: Child Labor in Mica Mining
Over 60% of the world’s mica is mined in India, particularly in the area known as the “Mica Belt”, spanning parts of Bihar and Jharkhand. According to Human Rights Watch, many of these mines operate without regulation, and children as young as five are involved in the labor.
Reuters and NBC News have reported on the dangerous conditions in which families—often with no other income—risk their lives for mica extraction. Without enforceable supply chains or third-party verification, even large corporations have struggled to ensure their mica is cruelty-free.
Our Decision: Switching to Synthetic Mica
As a small-batch farm and bodycare maker, we realized that we cannot verify the ethical sourcing of mined mica. So we made the decision to switch to lab-made, cruelty-free synthetic mica, also known as fluorphlogopite.
Synthetic mica is made in a lab, offering not only ethical transparency but better performance in soap and skincare:
Brighter, more vibrant colors
No sharp edges – safer for sensitive skin
Plastic-free glitter alternative
Consistent purity and safety
According to the Environmental Working Group, synthetic mica is safe for cosmetic use and doesn’t carry the ethical baggage of natural mica.
Label Reading Tips: Mined vs. Synthetic Mica
Want to check the ingredients in your products?
Natural Mica may appear as:
Mica, CI 77019, or Potassium Aluminum SilicateSynthetic Mica will usually appear as:
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite or Synthetic Mica
Looking Ahead
We hope to, one day, support community-run co-ops that offer safe and ethical mica mining. But until there’s a transparent and scalable solution, Ghost Valley Farm will remain committed to using synthetic mica for all colorants—aligning with our goal to leave the world a bit better than it was when we got here.
Want to learn more about the ethical issues surrounding mica mining?
Read about mica's global impact on children and communities →